Adventures in Sumo

I found out, a little late, on the local chat forum here that the annual trek to Osaka would be happening in order to catch a Sumo tournament. A group of us decided to drive the distance in order to watch portly men tussle with one another while wearing a uniform that closely resembled a thong. But more about that later.

We woke up at the decent hour of 3am and were off by 3:30. Surprisingly, none of us fell asleep during the 3 hour drive to Osaka. After passing by the actual building where the tickets were being sold and then getting lost for 40 minutes, we eventually made our way back to where we had already been and got our free-seating tickets.

A group of us then ventured to the fabled "Spa World". Basically a fancy, multiple pool onsen which features massages and a waterpark on the very top floor. Onsen floors are divided according to sex. Men on one and women on the other. On our floor they had a nifty "relaxation room" where you could don an alluring pink shift, wrap a bright orange towel around your wet hair and lie down on a reclining chair. Then, because you're so relaxed from the entire hot onsen pool experience, you inevitably fall asleep. One of the stranger experiences of this onsen is sitting with your friends around a table in a cafe, drinking water and chatting. Strange because the group of you are in nothing but your birthday suits, as are the other customers in the room.

Back to sumo. We meandered back, skin suitably reddened from the onsen, took our seats, and hunkered down to watch some Japanese wrestling. Sumo wrestlers go through a series of ceremonial motions that last longer than the actual bout. It includes the famous(?) lifting/stretching of the legs and sprinkling salt in the ring to purify it. The two opponents then face each other, posed to fight, then back off. This happens about three times before they actually fight. Apparently during these numerous face-offs, one opponent will occasionally "psych-out" the other. You can tell this has happened when the audience cheers and claps. I personally had absolutely no idea when the psych-outs happened or who was the psycher and who was the psychee. It was explained to me that only the Japanese can tell.

One of the more interesting displays during the afternoon was watching the yokozuna, or top-ranked wrestler, perform a traditional ceremonial dance/series of movements. (It looked like a dance to me) It's as an elaborate a display as any you'll see. In the picture, the middle wrestler is the yokozuna.

We watched until the last match where the yokozuna fought. It was the one all the audience had been waiting for and I would say that it delivered on expectations. Obviously, I had none, being a first time viewer. I would recommend that any visitor to Japan try to catch a match.