My random musings about life in general.
About Me
Tuesday, April 25, 2006
And I'm off...for vacation
I will post when I return. Hopefully with pictures. Cheers all.
Thursday, April 20, 2006
Argh
Tuesday, April 18, 2006
1. I finally, after months of hoping I'd never have to touch one again, learned to drive a stick shift. Although most people rave over and profess great love for a manual car, I see it as a lot of unecessary extra work. I am a lazy being.
2. I learned to say "I can't speak Japanese" in Japanese. Watashi wa nihongo de hanashimasen. Very useful, particularly when you look no different than
the natives.
3. I also learned to say "I'm Canadian" (Watashi wa Ca-na-da jin desu) and a
very sloppy way of explaining my parents are Korean. I used this phrase to
prevent the locals from thinking I am mentally challenged.
4. I perfected the art of looking confused and bewildered whenever anyone attempted to speak to me in Japanese. To accomplish this, simply widen your eyes and then furrow your brow. Follow this by shaking your head while apologizing (either in Japanese or your native tongue). I began inadvertently studying this craft in China and have worked extensively at improving it during my Asian travels.
5. I learned to read Hiragana and Katakana. I would describe Hiragana as the curvaceous alphabet. Katakana is it's rather angular sister. As with many siblings, while there are differences, you can tell they're related.
6. I developed an unhealthy negative attitude towards Kanji, a distant relative to both Hiragana and Katakana. Kanji is a tease, sometimes enticingly simple and yet disturbingly complex.
7. I've become increasingly fond of Japanese fashion. I find myself wanting to wear multiple layers, perforated pastel-coloured mules, insanely uncomfortable stiletto heels, brightly coloured striped knee-socks, long shirts that could double as dresses, and arm warmers. I mean c'mon, arm warmers?? I bought three pairs!
8. I discovered I don't like udon. This is a great tragedy since udon shops are a dime a dozen here and the cheapest meal to be had. I've tried on numerous occasions to reconcile myself to the thick-noodle-in-fish-broth mixture but to no avail. I just don't enjoy.
9. I can now waste countless minutes rifling through the menus on my cell phone. Exactly what new thing I think I'm going to discover after 6 months is
beyond me but I still do it.
10. That better sushi is to be had in Vancouver. Admittedly I haven't tasted too much sushi here, being rather pricey, but what I've had wasn't anything to write home about. I actually look forward to eating at Sushi Boat in Calgary again. It's too fun to watch the endless line of boats float by, holding various pieces of sushi.
Thursday, April 13, 2006
Cram Schools and Kaiyo Academy
Today I read an article about a new elite private school, for junior high/high school students, opening in Japan. It is meant for the cultivation of future leaders. The school, Kaiyo Academy, is apparently fashioned after Britain's Eton, but the strictly regimented schedule makes one wonder what the students are going to gain, aside from a penchant for punctuality. Classes are naturally scheduled, but so are free time, reading materials, phone calls and the like. Video games, comic books and bicycles are prohibited. I was confused as to exactly why bicycles weren't allowed but I'm not a school official. Perhaps riding a bike fosters bad behaviour. Kaiyo Academy is meant as an expensive alternative to both public and cram schools. Now the two are blended nicely together for the ultimate in time-crunching, educational achievement. The cost to send a child there is 3 million yen per year. That's around 30,000 CDN.
For those of you unfamiliar with the cram school system, it is an after school school. Kind of like tutoring centers in Canada except they can be much more rigid. In Korea I taught at an English hagwon, that specialized in students that had previously lived in an English speaking country for a minimum of one year. So, I was spoiled as an English teacher since almost all my students could easily converse with me and could read and write English to boot. My English juku in Japan didn't boast the same standards but had the same philosophy. Which was: Teach the kids as much English as possible in the time allowed.
Public schools, in both Korea and Japan, end around 3pm, sometimes earlier for the lower grades. Afterwards, it is common for many children to be bundled off, either by bus, car or bicycle to a cram school. Be it for English, math, social studies or the like. It's also common for students to stay at one or other cram school virtually ALL evening. Many of my students were frequently late to class because they had to come running for another school. Often they also looked bone-tired but would try to stay awake and alert for class.
The reason for cram schools is the overwhelming pressure and competition that surrounds getting into a good university. All families want to be able to brag that their child attends or attended (either tense is fine) the greatest university in the country. The top universities in Korea and Japan respectively, are Seoul and Tokyo. For my father's generation, if you went to Seoul University you were made for life. I assume the situation would've been similar for Tokyo. Entrance examinations for universities are cut-throat operations. If you failed, you didn't get in and had to wait another year before trying again. Then there was the whole dishonoring and shaming your family thing. Failure is not acceptable in any form. Failing means you don't respect all your family has done for you nor do you respect yourself. You didn't try hard enough. Suicide rates among students usually rise during entrance examination season. Thus, in order to lower the chance of failure, students are sent to cram schools.
I'm just glad that I was brought up in a country where the education system is a little more lax. I can't imagine spending every waking moment of my teenage years studying.
Wednesday, April 12, 2006
Tokyo again

Now that I've got my bearings and have organized most of what needs to be organized (flight home, soon-to-be-trip, additional inconsequential details) I can now write about what else I saw in Tokyo.
Our first day in, with the extra early arrival of 6:30am, due to the overnight bus schedule, we wandered around, bleary eyed, sleepy, and wondering what the hell to do with ourselves for the next 10 hours or so (as this is when we could check into our hotel). Nothing was open, hardly any shops, restaurants or museums. The subway, if nothing else, was up and running so we hopped on and then hopped off at Ueno Station. This lead to Ueno Park.
At Ueno Park, the sakura trees or cherry blossoms, were in full bloom. They were beautiful to look at but the scenic view was ruined by the huge amounts of blue tarp underneath. The first weekend in April gave way to tons of hanami, or cherry blossom viewing parties. This means groups of people stake out spots underneath the trees, usually with tarp or newspaper, and then proceed to drink and eat, ALL day long. A few hardy souls were already camped out before 7am. They'd probably been there all night to save their coveted places. That early in the morning, there were only handfuls of people there. However, later on, after we'd eaten breakfast and taken a tour of Tokyo National Museum, the crowds were horribly oppressive. I've never seen so many people literally pouring out of a station and into a park before. Even though I was still outdoors the amount of people began to feel suffocating. I wanted to run and hide. So, we left.
Around 3 in the afternoon I began to grow weary of the constant crowds and of being on my feet. We decided it was close enough to the time of check-in so we ventured back to the hotel. We were 20 minutes early and asked to wait until it was exactly 4pm. If there's one thing I've discovered about Japan it's that they are extremely punctual. We checked in and I fell asleep for a good hour and a half.
Once up again we headed off to Shinjuku, the young party area of Tokyo. With all the lights and huge monitors, it looks similar to Broadway in New York. After wandering around the decent part of town, we started looking for Kabuki-cho, or the red-light district. Why is it that the seamy, seedy parts of town are always so much more interesting to go to?
Kabuki-cho is made up of rows upon rows of hostess clubs/bars. Meaning a place where only Japanese men can go to "relax". Walking around you could sometimes see some scantily clad women bidding a man farewell in front of the club. There were a fair number of host clubs as well. Though the men advertised on the billboards were rather effeminate in looks. What is with the hair here? It looks like they shocked themselves with electricity and then patted it down before leaving the house. Oddly, we also found a good number of Korean restaurants in Kabuki-cho. Meaning that Koreans find a good living in the red-light district perhaps?
The first day Will followed me to Harajuku and then I duly followed him to Akihabara, the electronics district of Tokyo. Here there are a great number of buildings whose entire floors are devoted to cameras, computers, cell phones, walkmans, mp3 players, video games and etc. Will was in heaven but I could feel my eyes glazing over within 10 minutes of a video game hunt. On a later day we returned to Akihabara, but this time to visit a Maid Cafe. What is this you ask? It's odd but this is a cafe where girls dress up like maids. Sometimes with bunny or cat ears on their heads. There is a sitting fee and the prices for drinks and food are about what you'd expect at a bar. You can choose to play a game with a maid for 3min for the bargain price of 500yen (5 dollars). Once an hour the lights would dim and the maids would engage the audience to play a variation of "rock paper scissors". The winner won some gold memento coins of the cafe. I believe they sing on occasion as well. Some cafe's cater more to manga readers and the girls will dress up like some famous manga characters. The one we were at seemed to be a standard Maid Cafe.
The last thing I'll write about is the Meguro Parasite Museum. I had heard about this from a friend and it came so highly recommended I couldn't pass up a chance to see it. I don't think I've ever seen so much information about parasites in one place before. The museum consisted of two floors in a modest looking building. Both floors held various jars of parasites preserved in solution. The second floor was more traumatic with the pictures of what certain parasites could do to the human body. There was also an 8.8m tapeworm, taken from a human male, incased in glass. Next to it was a length of rope, cut to 8.8m that you could unravel to see in all its lengthy glory. Also on display was a dolphin heart ridden with pinworms. It was truly disgusting. The gift shop on the 2nd floor had an English booklet explaining the displays, which Will and I avidly read to see what we had missed. I started feeling a little queasy as the booklet went into great detail about the effects of parasites. One particular fact that was great to read was people often don't realize they have a tapeworm until they seeing it hanging out after going #2. Both of us left the museum feeling as though we should go straight to the doctor to get checked out.
I had a great time in Tokyo and even relished taking the subway/trains. I guess it was just the accessibility that I missed. You can jump onto the train and go somewhere interesting. This isn't as easily done in the inaka unless you own a car.
Friday, April 07, 2006
I set my return date!
Thursday, April 06, 2006
Tokyo - Starring Harajuku
Last Friday found Will and myself waiting at for an overnight bus by Tokushima Station. I had just finished my last day of work and was pretty damn excited about going somewhere and relaxing. It duly arrived and we boarded. I was interested to see that there were bottles of green tea supplied as well as pillows and blankets. Once the bus was really on its way, we were required to pull the curtains closed and all the lights were turned off. This,coupled with the rather intense heat, created something of a feeling of claustrophobia but otherwise, all was good.On Sunday, we hopped onto the infallible JR Yamanote line (it goes to all major Tokyo hotspots) and headed to Harajuku where we had read girls of questionable fashion tastes congregated. They are known as the Coz-play-zoku (Costume play gang). After walking through a long street lined with shops and boutiques (I starry-eyed, Will blank-eyed). We came across jingu-bashi and one of strangest sights I have ever seen in my life. All long the bridge sat/stood groups of girls garbed in a bizarre variety of clothing. Maid outfits, huge platform knee-high boots, goth-like makeup, the works. As I walked around I saw a number of tourists, all looking exactly as I felt. Astonished and bewildered with cameras in hand. I must've stayed on the bashi (bridge) for a good half hour just staring, open-mouthed like a yokel.
The next day I returned to Harajuku (while Will shopped in Akihabara the electronics district), not to stare but to shop. And what did I end up buying? Socks, and lots of them. Striped, glittery, and plain, knee-high socks. I also bought arm-warmers, skirts and extremely long pearl beads. When am I ever going to wear all these things? No bloody clue but it sure was fun buying it all! I also snacked on crepes. There must've been at least 10 crepe vendors on the one street alone.
I hope to write about other spots we saw in Tokyo but knowing me I might not get around to it. Hope you're all enjoying yourselves.
Thursday, March 23, 2006
Adventures in Sumo

I found out, a little late, on the local chat forum here that the annual trek to Osaka would be happening in order to catch a Sumo tournament. A group of us decided to drive the distance in order to watch portly men tussle with one another while wearing a uniform that closely resembled a thong. But more about that later.
We woke up at the decent hour of 3am and were off by 3:30. Surprisingly, none of us fell asleep during the 3 hour drive to Osaka. After passing by the actual building where the tickets were being sold and then getting lost for 40 minutes, we eventually made our way back to where we had already been and got our free-seating tickets.
A group of us then ventured to the fabled "Spa World". Basically a fancy, multiple pool onsen which features massages and a waterpark on the very top floor. Onsen floors are divided according to sex. Men on one and women on the other. On our floor they had a nifty "relaxation room" where you could don an alluring pink shift, wrap a bright orange towel around your wet hair and lie down on a reclining chair. Then, because you're so relaxed from the entire hot onsen pool experience, you inevitably fall asleep. One of the stranger experiences of this onsen is sitting with your friends around a table in a cafe, drinking water and chatting. Strange because the group of you are in nothing but your birthday suits, as are the other customers in the room.
Back to sumo. We meandered back, skin suitably reddened from the onsen, took our seats, and hunkered down to watch some Japanese wrestling. Sumo wrestlers go through a series of ceremonial motions that last longer than the actual bout. It includes the famous(?) lifting/stretching of the legs and sprinkling salt in the ring to purify it. The two opponents then face each other, posed to fight, then back off. This happens about three times before they actually fight. Apparently during these numerous face-offs, one opponent will occasionally "psych-out" the other. You can tell this has happened when the audience cheers and claps. I personally had absolutely no idea when the psych-outs happened or who was the psycher and who was the psychee. It was explained to me that only the Japanese can tell.
One of the more interesting displays during the afternoon was watching the yokozuna, or top-ranked wrestler, perform a traditional ceremonial dance/series of movements. (It looked like a dance to me) It's as an elaborate a display as any you'll see. In the picture, the middle wrestler is the yokozuna.
We watched until the last match where the yokozuna fought. It was the one all the audience had been waiting for and I would say that it delivered on expectations. Obviously, I had none, being a first time viewer. I would recommend that any visitor to Japan try to catch a match.
Monday, March 13, 2006
Spring
On Thursday night I realized it must truly be spring because I was having sneezing fits. Meaning I'd sneeze about 5-6 times in succession and then be left with the wild desire to rip off my nose. This charming display continued into the next day by the end of which I sounded as if I'd never learned to pronounce words properly. Not that anyone could really understand since I'd interrupt myself in order to make room for a sneezing fit.
I remembered to bring some allergy medication with me but the directions warn of taking more than one pill a day. So, once I've taken that one, and experienced the rather brief relief of it, I stare sullenly at the box pretty much waiting until I can take the next one. I also stare sullenly at people who don't suffer from this affliction. Namely my fiance. In addition to my angry looks, he's also privy to my constant carping and complaining about how bad I feel (and this on top of constant oh-so-seductive nose-blowing and coughing). He has a rocking good time.
And that's the end. Cheers all.
Tuesday, March 07, 2006
Jam and cars
This morning, as I was getting breakfast together for myself, I took out the jam from the fridge. Upon opening said jar I noticed a slight, shall we say, discoloration on the top of it. There were 2 spots of discoloration to be precise. The jam was starting to mold. I've never encountered moldy jam before. And back home we keep the jam in the fridge FOREVER. I don't know if the ingredients of jam are different here or if our fridge just plain sucks. Probably the latter. Yuck.
On a completely different note, I thought I'd write about the interior decoration of cars here in Japan. Since I drive so bloody much and could probably now make my way to the city blindfolded, I look at the cars around me while enroute. The interior of my car is starkly bare. Particularly since the ceiling was stripped of its lining and now only has bits of gluey sponge dotting it. However other cars see no need to always be in their birthday suits. Some cars are lined with Pooh Bears, and I mean LINED. They clamour on the dashboard, they crowd the back windows, and sometimes they wave cheerfully from the seatbelts. Other cars have Hello Kitty similarly vying for space. And still others have, well, it looks like they killed a goat and laid its fur across the dashboard.
For cars with a manual transmission, the stick has sometimes been altered. They take the conventional black knob with the numbers off and replace it with this funky, psychedelic, iridescently clear plastic...shaft. It's really quite attractive and makes me wish I had one for my car. While some drivers have to reach down for the gear shift, other drivers have solved that annoying need by putting so many attachments onto the stick that the thing now is level with their shoulders. I don't know if that might make the ride a little more dangerous or not.
I will write again whenever I see something of interest.
Sunday, February 19, 2006
Eyo Hadaka Matsuri - Naked Man Festival
The Eyo Hadaka began in the 1500s when priests gave out amulets to coincide with the lunar new year. The amulets became popular and were coveted for their good fortune. In order to better distribute the amulets the priests moved to the balcony where they could toss the sought-after item to the crowd below. The amulet switched to a pair of wooden sticks called shingi. And then, it evolved into what I saw last night, which I will now try to describe.
I inadverdently volunteered Will to run in this festival. I had little to no idea of what it entailed except that he would be nearly naked and running around in cold weather with a bunch of other near-naked men. I duly booked a hotel room and then we organized ourselves to get to Okayama (a 2 and a half hour drive away). We arrived with little incident and were loaded onto spectator and runner buses.
Once in the vicinity of the temple the runners were herded off to change into their fundoshi (a cloth covering the groin area, similar to what you see Sumo wrestlers wear) and tabi (ankle socks with a defined toe). This was all the clothing the participating men were permitted to wear during the festivities. Yesterday evening the temperature hovered somewhere near 0 degrees celsius. Once properly garbed, the men sort of half-jogged down a small street leading to the temple gates continually chanting: "Wasshoi! Wasshoi!" which I was told meant "I'm strong/healthy/happy."
Once through the gates, the men were required to run around the temple 3 times. Included in this circuit was a refreshing run through an icy cold fountain. They came out soaking wet and then jogged up the steps of the main pavilion where they stood chanting for a little while before jogging back down the steps to repeat the torture. Around 11:30pm the men started jockeying for position in the main pavilion. Bascially the men were smushed together so that they hardly had enough room to breathe comfortably. A lot of pushing seemed to be involved and, periodically, an avalanche of men would tumble down the stairs. From my vantage point what I saw was a rather large grouping of back, behinds and legs all scrambling and moving, either to get closer to where the shingi would be dropped or merely in a vain attempt to keep warm. From the center of this sardine-like gathering emitted a cloud of steam, created solely by the heat of the mens' bodies.
Promptly at midnight the lights were turned off and the shingi dropped. The lights came back on and the spectators witness an undignified struggle to grab hold of the shingi. I have no idea who managed to get them and have no idea how anyone could tell what happened in the melee. In about 10-15 min it was all over. The Eyo Hadaka was finished until next year.
Once I met back up with Will, he told me it was a great cultural experience but one he likely wouldn't repeat. I suppose it would be hard to try and recreate the first time of running around in a g-string, willingly dunking yourself in freezing water, getting crushed with throngs of other naked men, and frantically chasing two sticks.
Though I could no longer feel my feet by night's end, I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed the festival. You couldn't pull off something like this back in North America let me tell you. Cheers all.
Friday, February 10, 2006
Twins
The two had the same hairstyle, nearly the same expression and, unfortunately, the almost the same clothing. The one difference was, one wore a black shirt underneath his vest and one wore a brown one. Nevertheless, I still kept screwing up their names. They had to keep correcting me though I think it started to amuse them that I was having such trouble trying to identify them from each other. By the end of class I'd figured identical twins should have identical names if for no other reason than to make my life easier.
I just fear that they'll be wearing exactly the same clothing for the next class.
Monday, January 30, 2006
Squatters
This style of toilet is situated in the ground. Really, it's quite a space saver. No need for all that extra porcelain to fashion out a seat. Another benefit is that it works out your legs. In order to use a squatter one needs to position their feet on either side of the toilet and then, well, squat. Make sure you're in a relatively comfortable position or you'll have a hell of a time getting back on your feet. People who have a poor sense of balance won't enjoy the experience.
The first time I was lucky enough to encounter a squatter was in Korea. We were at a highway rest stop and these were the only option. For someone who had only ever vaguely heard of the existence of these toilets, I viewed them with some apprehension. Which way to face? Where's the flush handle? (in one country I spent a good 5 minutes searching for a way to flush before finally realizing it didn't come with that option) For the uninitiated, you face the hood. The majority are perfectly clean and sanitary. I've gotten used to them but really, I merely tolerate their existence.
Someone once told me she thinks the best way to judge a country's modernity factor is by looking at the state and condition of the toilets. And you know what? You kind of can. Though I can't quite imagine seeing a headline reading: "2006 World Toilet Survey announces Switzerland is the best place to live, 4th year running."
Hey! This was my 50th post!
Saturday, January 28, 2006
Construction
Another thing about construction is that it seems to be a “make-work” program for the Japanese. A length of 300-500m features bright flashy lights, akin to what you would see in Las Vegas as well as at least 7 workers. 3 of these workers carry either white and red flags or a flashing red baton. Their job is primarily to guide traffic on either side of the yellow line. This is fine when the stretch of road is long but when it isn’t it hardly seems necessary to have that many people frantically waving white flags to tell you, yes, you can drive through.
People are also employed in large parking lots to guide traffic out. This seems like a nice gesture but for this Canadian who has managed to get out of sizable parking lots all on her lonesome, the attention is more annoying. You aren’t allowed to leave until these baton-holding officials give you the go ahead. They seem to think you need an awful lot of room to make a simple turn. I was made to wait and wait while several good chances went by. In the end I was ready to run over these men, while screaming with impatience.
It makes you wonder, isn’t there somewhere else all this funding for construction could be spent? Rather than needlessly repaving roads and having 3 people tell you you’re allowed to drive? Maybe it’s just me.
Monday, January 16, 2006
Kyoto
Before coming to Japan, I really wanted to see Kyoto. Why? Well, a kind of stupid reason but I had read "Memoirs of a Geisha" and then later, "Geisha of Gion" (do you see a trend here?) and I wanted to see where all these things took place. That and Kyoto is reputed to be a place of historical and natural beauty so there you go.
The drive from Himeji to Kyoto took about half a day. Kyoto roads weren't quite as congested as I'd thought they'd be. It took some maneuvering on small alley roads but we eventually found the ryokan where we'd made a reservation to stay. A ryokan is a Japanese style inn. I found it to be like a Japanese style hostel with more room space and amenities. The washrooms are shared as is the shower/bath. The bath is the fun part. They prepare it for you and call when it's ready. Always soap and rinse yourself off thoroughly before stepping into a Japanese bath. It's not meant for scrubbing. But I'm getting off topic.
The lady was very welcoming and showed us to our room then served us tea and a snack afterwards. After drinking, eating and examining the bath robes that were laid on the futons for our use, we headed out to explore Kyoto at night. Basically we had dinner and tooled around this enormous shopping area. My city-starved self was overwhelmed at all the consumer goods. I wanted to buy everything.
Highlights of Kyoto for me included seeing Gion (the setting of the aforementioned books) and the Golden Pavilion. Gion is part modern night-life and part traditional tea-house. The north side of Gion sports expensive coffee shops, neon lights promoting bars and a lot of well dressed people milling around. The south side is much darker though not creepily so. The streets where the more traditional ochaya (teahouses) are are much less busy than modern Gion. Apparently, you can't even get into a teahouse unless invited by an already established customer. A night in a teahouse includes entertainment by geisha or geikos and usually a very expensive sumptuous meal. From what I've read these parties can cost well in excess of 2000 dollars. A bit too pricey for fun in my opinion. Give me ramen and an 18 dollar movie and I'm happy.
I spotted who I thought was a geisha while roaming around the teahouses. Her hair was done up in a traditonal style and she wore a kimono under her long winter cloak. What did I do after spotting said geisha? The intelligent foreigner thing to do of course, I stalked her, dragging my companions along with me. We could only follow so far as she ducked into a teahouse where we were unable to go. That was my excitement in Gion.
The following day, we took our little Minica and went to Kinkakuji which literally translates to "Golden Temple" but is better known to English speakers as the Golden Pavilion. The entry fee was 400 yen and worth every penny in my opinion. The temple is situated on a very peaceful zen-like pond with very lush trees surrounding it. The temple itself is...GOLD. Not entirely gold but a good portion of it is modeled in gold. After taking various shots of the temple you could walk on the path up to a small but pretty waterfall. Further still you could fall prey to the souvenir stands selling all sorts of knick-knacks. This I did quite gleefully, having been rather prudent with my cash up till then.
The remainder of the trip involved a lot of driving (back to Shikoku) and falling asleep only to be startled into wakefulness by Will's voice saying: "Uh, I need to know where I'm going now." (I was the navigator, being the passenger) We celebrated the New Year quietly at home which was nice since we hadn't been able to be together the year before.
Talk to you all soon, cheers.
Saturday, January 14, 2006
Kure, Hiroshima and Himeji
My winter holiday began on Dec.23, or the Emperor's Birthday which a national holiday here. On Christmas Eve Will and I set out on the road in our little, yet trusty kei car to Kure (a 30 min train ride from Hiroshima). No, I didn't choose Kure for the hell of it, I have friends who live there. What would've been a 3 hour drive back in Canada took almost 6 here. For one thing, the car can't go over 80km/h comfortably for more than 10 minutes and for another traffic is slllooooww. At one point we gave up the non-toll, but non-moving, highway in favor of the zippiness of the rather pricey expressway.
Once in Kure, we met up with my friends, ate dinner, exchanged presents, slept and woke up bright and early to meet another friend in Hiroshima. Once altogether, we had a healthy McDonald's breakfast then set off for Peace Memorial Park, the site of the A-bomb dome. This structure survived the point-blank blast though a lot of the walls were seared off. It was strange to be looking at a building destroyed the way it was. Basically parts of it just melted away.
The A-bomb dome is located in Peace Memorial Park which also houses the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. This museum details the creation of Hiroshima as a city as well as the creation of "Little Boy" better known as the atomic bomb. Hiroshima was one of four possible target sites, all candidates being more or less intact unlike other air-raid ravaged cities. Why choose a city that's intact? To observe the effects of course. Kind of like a deadly, huge-scale science experiment. Other sections of the museum showed pictures of the after-effects on humans and objects. A particularly affecting picture shows a watch, frozen at 8:15, the time the atomic bomb detonated above Hiroshima. I won't go into details about the pictures of human suffering. All I can say is there was worse shown in the War Crimes Museum in Ho Chi Minh.
The rest of Hiroshima was walking and taking in a few gardens and one rather mundane castle. (I think I've seen too many Asian castles). The next day we spent in Kure relaxing before taking off for Himeji, famous for its enormous castle, which even this jaded viewer enjoyed.
Himeji Castle is big, even as castles go. One of our first stops was Princess Sen's Quarters. This Princess was first married at 7 to a guy who off and committed suicide. She then met and married the love of her life, Honda Tadatoki and lived in Himeji Castle.
Although the rooms were large and the Princess pretty much had use of the entire building, I couldn't help thinking that, with the bars on the windows and soldiers keeping watch at intermittent posts, it would've been more like living in a glorified prison. The main tower was interesting. Six stories tall and each successive story is smaller than the one beneath it. The bottom floor's walls contained many pegs meant to hold swords and other weapons. The top floor housed a shrine that was moved into the castle after the building took over its former spot.
In order to go into the castle, you had to take off your shoes, put on slippers, then carry your shoes around in a white plastic bag. I think some of the grandeur of the castle was lost on me because I was focusing more on the increasing numbness of my feet. I recommend visiting Himeji in the springtime when the temperature is more agreeable.
Alright, I'm running out of steam. Stay tuned for my take on Kyoto...
Thursday, December 22, 2005
Heaters
So, to battle the frigidness, we have heaters. They come in all shapes and sizes. The first is the air conditioner/heater which is usually perched above the doorway. It was great as an air conditioner but as a heater you have to sit in a certain area of the room to get any benefit from it. Then there is what I call a heat lamp. It looks like a fan but doesn't blow and gets hot. Good for short distances but useless for a big room. Then there is also the "kotatsu" which is a table that is heated underneath. You throw a blanket under the lid, stick your legs under and enjoy the ensuing warmth.
I recently found out that the toilet in my house has a heated seat. And while it sounds weird, it's great! The bathroom is as cold as the rest of the house and it's not fun to have to answer nature's call in the middle of a very cold night.
This brings me to the kerosene powered heater. This bad boy has a tank which can be filled with kerosene that can be bought from your local gas station. It's warm but it can smell. There is one in my workplace which gives me a headache if I have it on for more than an hour. Possibly fainting or poisoning myself with toxic fumes is not my idea of an ending so I regulate it's usage by obsessively opening windows and gulping in fresh air or turning it off completely. Unfortunately this polluting machine is the only heater that actually warms up a room.
That said and done, Shikoku hasn't yet reached it's coldest temperatures of the year. So an icicle will write to you in those months.
Thursday, December 15, 2005
Snow and its repercussions
I bundled up appropriately for the weather, meaning sweater, fleece, shell, scarf, gloves and toque. Then I ventured outside only to be met with a really heavy snowfall. The 5 minute walk to the station left me nicely coated in the white stuff.
Now, I'm not a huge fan of the train system here. They are infrequent and certain trains have a tendency to interrupt their trip to sit at a station and, well, just sit. For up to what seems like 10 minutes at a time. Why are they sitting? One reason is that there is only one train track. So, occasionally one train must wait until the other coming from the opposite direction has cleared the track. No, messy accidents that way you see. The other reason is solely to tick me off. I've now made it a rule to dehyrdrate myself before getting on the bloody train for fear I'll have to get off to use the bathroom and then wait up to an hour for the next one.
But I digress. The train ride was its usual thing, once at the station I boarded a bus and arrived at my school's central campus. Only problem, I wasn't working at the central office on this particular day. So, I borrowed a bike from a coworker and realized how very out of shape I am. The 15 minute ride left me tired and sweaty (due to overlayering, and carting around my 10 pound backpack). I taught, sweat my way to returning the bike, got on another bus and train. I now have great respect for my coworkers who have to bike, no matter the weather, to the separate branch offices. I was one tired puppy by the time I got home.
It snowed again this morning. When I now see snow I nearly break down sobbing. But being bound and determined to be lazy (and also having suffered through many a Calgarian winter) I maneuvered our tiny car down the icy hill, onto slushy roads and into greener pastures (the city is inexplicably blue skied and sunny). The car is now reposing in the parking lot, blissfully unaware that it will have to make a return trip into snowland.
And I have to teach soon so I'll stop the bitch fest here. Cheers all.
Monday, December 12, 2005
Slots in Japan
When in Osaka with Will and two friends of mine, way back in October, the group of us thought it would be fun to step into a Pachinko parlor. It's not hard to find, every city/town has at least one. In Osaka, they're a dime a dozen. You can find them from their extremely lit up signs declaring either: "Pachinko!" or "Millions!" At night, the signs are almost blinding. It's akin to seeing the bright lights of Vegas but only much more isolated.
Once you step inside one of these parlors you can barely hear anything for the constant sound of balls hitting each other. Pachinko is played, as far as I can tell, by dropping little silver balls into the top (or somehow inserting these things) of the machine and then sitting back and watching them drizzle down through different notches and slots. I think points are accumlated by where the balls hit when they land on the bottom. I wouldn't quote me on that though, since I've never actually played the game. The four of us, wandered around and looked confusedly at the machines and at all the people staring, mesmerized, at their Pachinko machines. On the floor were multiple tubs, sometimes stacked on each other, full of those little silver balls. After a few more moments of looking bewildered, with no one coming to help us waste our money, we left. Our pupils had to readjust to normal lighting once we were back outside.
Pachinko isn't technically gambling because you only receive a ticket or something similar once you're finished for the night (or day). The parlor itself does nothing to reimburse you for your efforts. But, if you go next door to a handy kiosk (which, of course, is in NO way affiliated with the Pachinko parlor), they'll take your ticket and give you something in return. What it is, I don't know, again because I never got to play. Perhaps cash or some prize.
To an outside viewer, Pachinko looks pretty dull. You sit at a machine and stare relentlessly at balls falling through spokes. But then, slot machines aren't much different. You press buttons (or pull the lever) and stare to see if you've managed to randomly match some pictures.
Though really, in either scenario you're pouring your money down the drain.
Wednesday, November 30, 2005
Japan in December
Being the Christmas lover that I am, the lack of it in Asia is depressing. Sure, they have Christmas trees and even carols but something of the holiday spirit is missing. I suppose it's something that just can't be reproduced. I can picture the malls back home being covered with X-Mas periphernalia and carols lilting out at every corner. In Japan, the malls are decked out but in a somewhat stilted fashion. Kind of like my Japanese (or Korean) writing.
Determined to celebrate Christmas despite my location I duly visited the novelty and 100 yen stores to compile a small list of Christmas decorations. The fake tree I got makes Charlie Brown's look enormous. Still, it's been laddered with lights and ornaments that are slightly too large for it. It also keeps falling over but that's alright, we'll just prop it against the wall.
Hope you're all doing well.
